Written companion to the Packard quick-guide install video. Timecodes at left point to the moment in the video where each step is shown. This guide covers the key points and the fasteners that matter — it does not replace the instruction sheet packed with the supercharger itself.
Spread every component on a table before you touch the machine so you know what you have and what it belongs to. Plan for parts that come off and do not go back on: the OEM belt, the alternator belt cover, and several other pieces that will be obvious once you're in there.
Pulling the bed is not required, but it opens the engine bay up and makes the rest of the job substantially easier.
Install the pulley shaft using the supplied M6 bolts. Then fit the snout and torque those fasteners to the same spec.
M6 · 80 in-lbsThe internal pulley must never be turned opposite its running direction. Best practice is not to rotate it at all during assembly — reverse rotation damages the supercharger.
Remove the tensioner section from its bracket along with the three OEM bolts that pass through it. Reinstall the bracket with those bolts snug only.
You need the play. The supercharger, mount and front plates all have to be coaxed into alignment, and nothing lines up if this is torqued early. Final-torque to factory spec once everything is together.
Factory spec — see verify listStart every fastener on every side before you tighten anything. Tighten one early and you will be taking it back off.
With everything aligned, torque the front plates, the supercharger, and the mount-to-engine-mount hardware. Then install the belt tensioner assembly. Belt tensioning itself comes later, at 10:10.
M6 · 80 in-lbsM8 · 16 ft-lbsM10 · 33 ft-lbsThe kit shifts the reservoir slightly to the left. Unbolt it top and bottom, then bolt the relocation bracket into the hole the old bolt came out of. Mount the reservoir to that bracket, front bolt first.
The upper mounting tab now sits in a new spot: drill a pilot hole with a 13/64" bit, then reuse the OEM self-tapping screw.
Unbolt the OEM MAP sensor and bolt the kit-supplied sensor in its place. Straight swap.
Swap the OEM rubber manifold between the throttle body and the intake plenum for the supplied one.
Remove the OEM bolt at this location. It is longer, and once the kit shortens the distance between throttle body and plenum it will make contact. Install the shorter bolt supplied with the kit instead.
The upper mount clamps to the upper frame tube; the intercooler then bolts to that mount. Fit the frame mount first, then set the intercooler on it.
Pulling the clutch piping buys useful clearance. Removing the shock entirely gives more still, but it isn't necessary.
With the wastegate installed, run the supplied blue silicone line from the wastegate boost port to the throttle body.
Which wastegate port — see verify listInstall the lower charge tube, then the upper.
Keep a bottle of Windex on the bench and spray the silicone bends and couplers. They slide on and off far more easily — worth it everywhere, essential on the air filter tube.
Build the reservoir, oil cooler and rear mount as an assembly on the bench. Snug the fasteners that locate the assembly to itself, and leave the rest loose — you will need that adjustment once it's in the machine.
Pull the OEM bolt for the bracket and reuse it — with red thread locker. The supplied bolt gets red thread locker too. This assembly cannot be allowed to vibrate loose in service.
Mount the front bracket to the frame first. Slide the oil-system assembly in and rest it on that bracket, then torque the retaining bolt. Finish the remaining cooler hardware once it's located.
M6 · 80 in-lbsUse a torque wrench here, not feel and not an impact. Stripping this fastener turns a bolt-in job into a repair.
The oil-line routing is specified in the instruction sheet packed in the supercharger box, and it is not optional reading. The plumbing runs clockwise. Follow the diagram exactly as printed.
Every plumbing decision, fluid fill and pump-priming instruction comes from the supercharger manufacturer's sheet. Do not improvise, and do not work from memory of another build.
Fill the supercharger with the specified oil, then run the manufacturer's initial start-up procedure. There is a defined process for moving fluid from the reservoir tank up into the supercharger, and it happens before you crank the engine.
Cranking a dry supercharger is the one mistake on this install you cannot undo. Prime first. Every time.
You need a 22 mm socket and a T40 Torx. The socket applies tension to the belt; the Torx locks it there.
Six items where the video is either ambiguous or where narration and the on-screen card disagree. Every one of these needs a shop-floor answer before this document goes to a customer, into a box, or onto the site.
| Item | What the video shows | Needed |
|---|---|---|
| M6 torque | On-screen card at 02:52 reads 80 in-lbs. Narration says "seven foot-pounds" three separate times — that's 84 in-lbs. | Confirm the number that goes in print. This guide uses 80 in-lbs, on the card's authority. |
| Belt tension | Narration says "about 80 ft-lbs." Card says 80–100 ft-lbs. | Card used here. Confirm the range is intentional and not a typo for a single value. |
| "Factory spec" | Called for three times — tensioner bolts, front plates, mount-to-engine-mount — with no figure given. | Either the Polaris service figures, or Packard's own numbers. A printed guide can't say "factory spec." |
| Drill bit size | Heard as 13/64" for the reservoir upper-mount pilot hole. | Confirm against the fastener. This is transcribed from speech, not read off a card. |
| Wastegate port | "the top one on the wastegate, or the lower one as you may call it" — genuinely ambiguous on video. | Name the port, and pull a still with a callout arrow. Wrong port here means no boost control. |
| Kit identity | No part number, model year range, or horsepower variant stated anywhere in the video. | Exact kit SKU and which Pro R model years it fits, for the header of this document. |